I feel obligated to admit that the following entry is not my own in terms of its format. A good friend of mine, Stephen, lived for a year in Senegambia. Just before his departure from this “dark continent,” he wrote a blog entry about the things he’ll miss the most and the things he will NOT miss at all (check it out at http://senegalstephen.wordpress.com). Despite being in very different situations, I found myself agreeing with nearly everything on his list. But we all know how I love to write and have my own voice heard (cue: eye roll), so I’ve gone ahead and created my own list as a wrap-up of these two years. It’s been a real roller coaster, and while I’m happy to get off and let my stomach settle for a while, the bug is in me and I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before I seek the thrill again. Get a beverage and get comfy… this one is a long one!
And now for the things I will not miss at ALL in South Africa:
1. Sexual harassment: Well this one is probably self-explanatory. A few months back, I posted the link to my friend Meg’s blog which spoke to the sexist culture in which we spent the last two years. I have been very fortunate (more so than some of my close friends can say) not to have dealt with any serious assaults, but like every PCV here, not a week has gone by when I have not had to deal with or ignore some sexual comment or gesture. While there are some funny stories that come from harmless perpetrators (a man woefully contemplating how he could ever afford the high labola [dowry] price that I had set for myself was one of my favourites), I really can’t wait to be back in a culture where I am respected and not thought of an object that can be bought.
2. Unsafe, unreliable public transport: You’ve heard this complaint before: taxies, mini-busses, koombies, combies, bakkies, buses, and hitches…. they all SUCK. The experience is truly African, and the stories that have accumulated surrounding my public transport adventures will live with me forever, but if I never have to ride in one of them again, it will still be too soon.
3. African time: The old American adage, “if you’re early you’re on time and if you’re on time you’re late” could be easily changed to suit the mindset of the SAfrican population: “If you’re on time you’re early, and if you’re late, you’re on time.” After two full years of attending African functions and meetings, I cannot think of one single example of something that started on time. I understand why this phenomenon occurs; historically Africans didn’t have clocks and worked off the sun and various natural landmarks which constantly shift (ie-when the shadow of the Acacia tree hits the rock…). However, it pains me to see how this lack of conformity hinders the progress of the country at large. This is just one of the many examples of how the first and third worlds are ineffectually meeting each other in SA.
4. The sense of entitlement: At first I had this labeled as unreliable co-workers, but when I thought about the cause of their unreliability, the word “lazy” popped into my head. I then thought about why they’re lazy, and I realized that it’s really the larger problem of entitelment here that is what bothers me most. It effects the masses here in SA, not just the teachers. For 60+ years, the blacks suffered under the oppressive Apartheid government. Now, 19 years since the “new South Africa,” the very people who felt most cheated in the past, are now the biggest impediment to a successful future of the country. The teachers at my school show up about half of the time. When they are here, the kids are lucky to receive half a period’s worth of instruction as the teachers usually preoccupy themselves with paper work or personal matters. Then they complain that teachers deserve more money (the average teacher’s salary is about 8 times the national average income, fyi). They, and so many other people in my village, have complained to me how they deserve more free government handouts, because for so long they “suffered.” While I will never negate the horror of Aparthied, I will be so happy to return to the American work ethic, where at least in my opinion, the masses work to improve the future rather than dwell on the failures of the past.
5. Bucket baths: I LOVE SHOWERS. PERIOD.
Things I truly will miss once I leave South Africa:
1. Sunsets: I remember reading a specific Peace Corps memoir in which the author tried to describe how the sky is just bigger in Africa and that you simply can’t understand it until you’re here. Well, I’ve been here, and I’m sold. Obviously science tells us the sky is the sky, and common sense tells us that without distruptions like buildings and trees the sky should seem bigger, but seriously…. It is bigger here. With a bigger sky comes bigger sunsets. To some, the idea that I spent the last 600+ evenings just watching the sun set might sound boring. To me, it is a time of the day that I have come to anticipate just as some people anticipate their favourite weekly TV show. Clearly, some were more impressive than others, but regardless of the show, the zen-like calm that comes over me as I sit on a plastic chair watching the sky change is something I will truly miss back in the city.
2. Village days: I know some PCVs would list this in their “will-not-miss” column, but for me, village days were, in ways, life changing. Despite always enjoying “me-time” as a kid, at some point in college I had actually developped a kind of weird phobia of being alone. Of course I still had my hour-long-candle-lit baths to myself, but if a full day passed without seeing some friends, I started to worry myself into thinking that I had somehow offended my friends. It doesn’t take a psychiatrist to tell you that is not healthy. Well, thankfully I got the best medicine without even needing a perscription. Village days were common. Basically they were any day spent entirely in the village without a single thing that I needed to do. Often I would spend them doing laundry, but most of the time, I would just take the time to read, write letters, plan complicated meals (I can’t wait to share this newly acquired skill with all you at home!), and just relish in the solitude. Many of my PCV friends can attest that about half way into any of our multi-week trips which always involve lotssss of togetherness, I usually take a day off from the group to do my own thing. I’ve come to love and need my alone time. So while I will unlikely ever live in a village again, my plan now is to keep the tradition of an occasional “village day” alive where ever I live from herein.
3. Travel: My best friend, Leanne, who is a PCV in Panama (who I’ll see in just a few short days!!) once sent me a witty BBM saying, “Are you ever at site!?!?! Every time we chat, you’re traveling!” She was kidding, of course, and she knows I did spend a great deal of time at my site, but the truth is, I did travel… A LOT! With four major holiday breaks factored into the South African school calender and very little to do in the village when school is out, the time-restraint that prohibits most working Americans from traveling was non-existant. Money is often the second prohibiting factor for travel, and while I only earned 248USD/month (which equates to about a quarter of the average teacher’s salary in South Africa), for the first time in a long time, money was not an issue for me. It is absolutely amazing how one can stretch a paycheck when they are in the right mindset. Knowing that I was a PCV, for the first year, I was content to eat very shabby meals in order to save. Then after really getting to know the grocery store, I realized that with a just an ounce of planning, I could eat well and still save! All of my clothes have lots of holes, which I never would have put up with in the states, but again, my label as PCV (and the fact that that is normal in the village) gave me the liberty to save what I might have spent on clothes for travel as well. It also doesn’t hurt that in the developing world hostels and public transport is SUPER cheap. So in two years I have visted Botswana, Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique, Namibia and all 9 of the SAfrican provinces, all for less than most of my friends make in a single month. It’s certainly going to be a big readjustment when I have financial responsibilities and an American work schedule again!
4. My learners: The good-bye to my beloved Nthabeleng was probably the most difficult of all of the good-byes. Not knowing where she will go to high school or if I will ever see her again is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of my concerns for her. She may have been my favourite, but she’s one of many of my students who were, at many times, the only reason I made it my full two years. While some of the kids have adopted the entitled and marginalized (thanks Hardin!) mindsets of their parents, many really want to make something of their life and are willing to work for it. I pushed my kids beyond their comfort zones and in the end, I think it was all for the best. I could go on, but words just won’t suffice to explain the impression these kids have left on me.
5. My new families: As I worte in an earlier blog entry, I never really wanted to be a mother until living in SA. The Mosweu, Molema, and Mashopa families each lent me insight into different aspects of South African culture, and I learned different lessons from my time with each of them. I learned not only about African family structure, but through my observations of them, I learned about American family life. I formulated my own concept of family which will last with me for life and likely shape what kind of mother I will one day be. I will miss them all terribly, but I look forward to keeping in touch with them and seeing where life takes them all.
So there you have it folks. A summary of my time in SA in 10 [relatively] consice points. I know I could have got emotional with this last entry, and to my romantic friends I apologize for not, but I’ve had enough emotions in the last month- hell, the last two years- to last me a life time. So now, I sign out of this blog, and of Africa. It’s time to “waka waka” somewhere new… like, say… America! 🙂